Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
What Is It?
Propylene Glycol Isostearate, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Propylene Glycol Myristate, Propylene Glycol Oleate and Propylene Glycol Oleate SE are monoesters of propylene glycol and fatty acids.
SE indicates that it is a self-emulsifying form that contains some sodium and/or potassium oleate. Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicocoate, Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate, Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Diisostearate and Propylene Glycol Dilaurate are diesters of proplyene glycol and fatty acids. The use of the “/” in the name indicates that the ingredient is a mixture of Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate and Propylene Glycol Dicaprate. In cosmetics and personal care products, Propylene Glycol monoesters and diesters are used in the formulation of moisturizers, cleansing products, fragrance products, and makeup products such as foundations and lipsticks.
Why Is It Used?
The following functions have been reported for these ingredients.
- Skin conditioning agent – emollient – Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol Isostearate, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Propylene Glycol Myristate
- Skin conditioning agent – occlusive – Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicocoate, Propylene Glycol Diisostearate, Propylene Glycol Dilaurate, Propylene Glycol Dioleate, Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate
- SurfactantAn ingredient that helps two substances that normally do not mix to become dissolved or dispersed in one another. Also called a surface active agent. – emulsifying agent – Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol Oleate SE, Propylene Glycol Isostearate, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Propylene Glycol Myristate
- Viscosity increasing agent – nonaqueous – Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Propylene Glycol Dicocoate, Propylene Glycol Diisostearate, Propylene Glycol Dilaurate, Propylene Glycol Dioleate, Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate
Scientific Facts
Propylene glycol monoesters and diesters are typically produced from the reaction of propylene glycol with the corresponding fatty acidA natural organic compound that consists of a carboxyl group (oxygen, carbon and hydrogen) attached to a chain of carbon atoms with their associated hydrogen atoms. The chain of carbon atoms may be connected with single bonds, making a ‘saturated’ fat; or it may contain some double bonds, making an ‘unsaturated’ fat. The number of carbon and hydrogen atoms in the chain is what determines the qualities of that particular fatty acid. Animal and vegetable fats are made up of various combinations of fatty acids (in sets of three) connected to a glycerol molecule, making them triglycerides.. For example, Propylene Glycol Oleate is produced via the reaction of propylene glycol with oleic acid.
Safety Information
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes propylene glycol mono- and diesters of fats and fatty acids on its list of multipurpose additives for direct addition to food. The FDA also permits the use of propylene glycol mono- and diesters of fats and fatty acids as indirect food additives for use as components of coatings in contact with food.
The safety of Propylene Glycol esters and diesters has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient ReviewThe Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) was established in 1976 as an independent safety review program for cosmetic ingredients. The CIR Expert Panel consists of independent experts in dermatology, toxicology, pharmacolgy and veterinary medicine. The CIR includes participation by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration and the Consumer Federation of America. (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicocoate, Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate, Propylene Glycol Isostearate, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Propylene Glycol Myristate, Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol Oleate SE, Propylene Glycol Dioleate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Diisostearate and Propylene Glycol Dilaurate were safe as cosmetic ingredients.
CIR Safety Review: The CIR Expert Panel reviewed skin irritation studies of Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate that showed minimal to no irritation, and a negative comedogenicityRefers to the chance that an ingredient or product will cause pores in the skin to clog. This may result in blackheads or whiteheads, officially called comedones. study on Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate.
Propylene Glycol Laurate caused only slight skin irritation. Data on the fatty acids and propylene glycol were negative for mutagenicity, chronic toxicity, and skin irritation and sensitizaiton. Data were found suggesting that Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate and Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate may enhance the skin penetration of other chemicals. Because these ingredients may enhance the penetration of other ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel recommended caution when formulating with the propylene glycol mono- and diesters and other ingredients for which limits have been set based on low dermal absorption.
Link to FDA Code of Federal Regulations for propylene glycol mono-and diesters of fats and fatty acids, and esters formed by the reaction of reconstituted oils and Propylene Glycol
- http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr…
- http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr…
All the propylene glycol monoesters and diesters may be used in cosmetics and personal care products marketed in Europe according to the general provisions of the Cosmetics Regulation of the European UnionUnder the general provisions of the cosmetics regulation of the EU, ingredients appearing on the following function-specific annexes must comply with the listed restrictions and/or specifications: colorants (Annex IV), preservatives (Annex V), UV filters (Annex VI) and other ingredients with specific concentration limits and/or other restrictions (Annex III). Ingredients specifically prohibited from use in cosmetic products are listed in Annex II. Other ingredients listed in the EU cosmetic ingredient database (CosIng) may be used without restrictions..
Link to the EU Cosmetic Regulation:
http://europa.eu/legislation_summaries/consumers/product_labelling_and_p…
More Scientific Information
The propylene glycol mono- and diesters are esters of propylene glycol and fatty acids. In the case of Propylene Glycol Dicocoate, the fatty acids are those derived from coconut oil. In cosmetics and personal care products, these ingredients function as skin conditioning agents – occlusive and emollient, viscosity increasing agents – nonaqueous, and surfactants – emulsifying agents.
Resources
Find out more about the regulation of Food Additives by the Food and Drug Administration
Food Ingredients and Packaging: http://www.fda.gov/Food/IngredientsPackagingLabeling/default.htm
Food Contact Substances: http://www.fda.gov/Food/IngredientsPackagingLabeling/PackagingFCS/defaul…
Substances Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS“GRAS” is an acronym for the phrase Generally Recognized As Safe. Under sections 201(s) and 409 of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (the Act), any substance that is intentionally added to food is a food additive, that is subject to premarket review and approval by FDA, unless the substance is generally recognized, among qualified experts, as having been adequately shown to be safe under the conditions of its intended use, or unless the use of the substance is otherwise excluded from the definition of a food additive.): http://www.fda.gov/Food/IngredientsPackagingLabeling/GRAS/default.htm
Search the Code of Federal Regulations http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm
EU Cosmetics Inventory http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/cosmetics/cosing/