Propylene Glycol Diisostearate

What Is It?

Propylene Glycol Isostearate, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Propylene Glycol Myristate, Propylene Glycol Oleate and Propylene Glycol Oleate SE are monoesters of propylene glycol and fatty acids.

SE indicates that it is a self-emulsifying form that contains some sodium and/or potassium oleate. Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicocoate, Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate, Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Diisostearate and Propylene Glycol Dilaurate are diesters of proplyene glycol and fatty acids. The use of the “/” in the name indicates that the ingredient is a mixture of Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate and Propylene Glycol Dicaprate. In cosmetics and personal care products, Propylene Glycol monoesters and diesters are used in the formulation of moisturizers, cleansing products, fragrance products, and makeup products such as foundations and lipsticks.

Why Is It Used?

The following functions have been reported for these ingredients.

  • Skin conditioning agent – emollient – Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol Isostearate, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Propylene Glycol Myristate
  • Skin conditioning agent – occlusive – Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicocoate, Propylene Glycol Diisostearate, Propylene Glycol Dilaurate, Propylene Glycol Dioleate, Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate
  • Surfactant – emulsifying agent – Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol Oleate SE, Propylene Glycol Isostearate, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Propylene Glycol Myristate
  • Viscosity increasing agent – nonaqueous – Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Propylene Glycol Dicocoate, Propylene Glycol Diisostearate, Propylene Glycol Dilaurate, Propylene Glycol Dioleate, Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate

Scientific Facts

Propylene glycol monoesters and diesters are typically produced from the reaction of propylene glycol with the corresponding fatty acid. For example, Propylene Glycol Oleate is produced via the reaction of propylene glycol with oleic acid.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes propylene glycol mono- and diesters of fats and fatty acids on its list of multipurpose additives for direct addition to food. The FDA also permits the use of propylene glycol mono- and diesters of fats and fatty acids as indirect food additives for use as components of coatings in contact with food.

The safety of Propylene Glycol esters and diesters has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Dicocoate, Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate, Propylene Glycol Isostearate, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Propylene Glycol Myristate, Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol Oleate SE, Propylene Glycol Dioleate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Propylene Glycol Diisostearate and Propylene Glycol Dilaurate were safe as cosmetic ingredients.

CIR Safety Review: The CIR Expert Panel reviewed skin irritation studies of Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate that showed minimal to no irritation, and a negative comedogenicity study on Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate.

Propylene Glycol Laurate caused only slight skin irritation. Data on the fatty acids and propylene glycol were negative for mutagenicity, chronic toxicity, and skin irritation and sensitizaiton. Data were found suggesting that Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate and Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate may enhance the skin penetration of other chemicals. Because these ingredients may enhance the penetration of other ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel recommended caution when formulating with the propylene glycol mono- and diesters and other ingredients for which limits have been set based on low dermal absorption.

Link to FDA Code of Federal Regulations for propylene glycol mono-and diesters of fats and fatty acids, and esters formed by the reaction of reconstituted oils and Propylene Glycol

All the propylene glycol monoesters and diesters may be used in cosmetics and personal care products marketed in Europe according to the general provisions of the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union.

Link to the EU Cosmetic Regulation:
http://europa.eu/legislation_summaries/consumers/product_labelling_and_p…

More Scientific Information

The propylene glycol mono- and diesters are esters of propylene glycol and fatty acids. In the case of Propylene Glycol Dicocoate, the fatty acids are those derived from coconut oil. In cosmetics and personal care products, these ingredients function as skin conditioning agents – occlusive and emollient, viscosity increasing agents – nonaqueous, and surfactants – emulsifying agents.

Resources

Find out more about the regulation of Food Additives by the Food and Drug Administration

Food Ingredients and Packaging: http://www.fda.gov/Food/IngredientsPackagingLabeling/default.htm

Food Contact Substances: http://www.fda.gov/Food/IngredientsPackagingLabeling/PackagingFCS/defaul…

Substances Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS): http://www.fda.gov/Food/IngredientsPackagingLabeling/GRAS/default.htm

Search the Code of Federal Regulations http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm

EU Cosmetics Inventory http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/cosmetics/cosing/