Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate
What Is It?
Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dicetearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diethylhexyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dioctyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate and Ditridecyl Dimer Dilinoleate vary from clear and slightly hazy yellow liquids to buttery yellow solids. In cosmetics and personal care products, these six ingredients are used in the formulation of makeup products such as lipsticks, eye shadow, and foundations, as well as skin cleansing and skin care products.
Why Is It Used?
Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate acts as a lubricant on the skin’s surface, which gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance. Dicetearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diethylhexyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dioctyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate and Ditridecyl Dimer Dilinoleate slow the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface.
Scientific Facts
These ingredients are typically produced from the reaction of dilinoleic acid, an essential fatty acidA natural organic compound that consists of a carboxyl group (oxygen, carbon and hydrogen) attached to a chain of carbon atoms with their associated hydrogen atoms. The chain of carbon atoms may be connected with single bonds, making a ‘saturated’ fat; or it may contain some double bonds, making an ‘unsaturated’ fat. The number of carbon and hydrogen atoms in the chain is what determines the qualities of that particular fatty acid. Animal and vegetable fats are made up of various combinations of fatty acids (in sets of three) connected to a glycerol molecule, making them triglycerides. derived from vegetable oils, with the corresponding alcoholAlcohols are a large class of important cosmetic ingredients but only ethanol needs to be denatured to prevent it from being redirected from cosmetic applications to alcoholic beverages..
For example, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate is produced via the reaction of dilinoleic acid with isopropyl alcohol.
Safety Information
The safety of these six ingredients has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient ReviewThe Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) was established in 1976 as an independent safety review program for cosmetic ingredients. The CIR Expert Panel consists of independent experts in dermatology, toxicology, pharmacolgy and veterinary medicine. The CIR includes participation by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration and the Consumer Federation of America. (CIR) Expert Panel.
The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dicetyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dioctyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dioctyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate and Ditridecyl Dimer Dilinoleate were safe as used in cosmetics and personal care products.
CIR Safety Review:
Safety test data on dilinoleic acid were considered relevant because dilinoleic acid is a component of these diesters and a likely breakdown product. These ingredients did not produce skin or ocular irritation, nor were they comedogenic. Mutagenicity tests in bacteria, clastogenicity studies in human lymphocytes in cultureA cells grown in a prepared nutrient medium., and L5178Y lymphoma cellThe basic structural and functional unit of all organisms; cells may exist as independent units of life or may form colonies or tissues as in higher plants and animals. forward mutation studies were all negative, indicating no dilinoleic acid genotoxicity.
No carcinogenicity studes were available; however, structural alerts that suggesting a mutagenic or carcinogenic risk were absent.
Significant reproductive/developmental toxicity or other systemic toxicity were not expected with these ingredients because they were poorly absorbed from the skin and were found to remain on the skin’s surface.
In clinical studies, cosmetic formulations containing these ingredients did not produce skin irritation or sensitization, although one report of sensitization to dilinoleic acid appeared in the case literature.
The CIR Expert Panel did note that the concentration of use of Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate was reportedly as high as 53% in lipsticks, but that the highest concentration tested for irritation/sensitization was 27%. Given the size of these molecules, their relative insolubility in water, their lipophilic nature, and the absence of any significant case reports of allergic reactions, a use concentration of 53% is not likely to be associated with any adverse effects.
Diisopropyl, Dicetearyl, Diisostearyl, Diethylhexyl, Dioctyldodecyl and Ditridecyl Dimer Dilinoleate may be used in cosmetics and personal care products marketed in Europe according to the general provisions of the Cosmetics Regulation of the European UnionUnder the general provisions of the cosmetics regulation of the EU, ingredients appearing on the following function-specific annexes must comply with the listed restrictions and/or specifications: colorants (Annex IV), preservatives (Annex V), UV filters (Annex VI) and other ingredients with specific concentration limits and/or other restrictions (Annex III). Ingredients specifically prohibited from use in cosmetic products are listed in Annex II. Other ingredients listed in the EU cosmetic ingredient database (CosIng) may be used without restrictions..
Link to the EU Cosmetic Regulation: http://europa.eu/legislation_summaries/consumers/product_labelling_and_packaging/co0013_en.htm
More Scientific Information
Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dicetearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diethylhexyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dioctyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate and Ditridecyl Dimer Dilinoleate are diesters of their respective alcohols and dilinoleic acid.
In cosmetics and personal care products, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate functions as a skin conditioning agent – emollient, while the remaining ingredients function as skin conditioning agents – occlusive.
Resources
EU Cosmetic Ingredients Inventory http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/cosmetics/cosing/
Search the FDA Code of Federal Regulations http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm