Ascorbyl Dipalmitate
What Is It?
Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate and Ascorbyl Stearate are made from vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Erythorbic Acid and Sodium Erythorbate are substances with structures similar to vitamin C and the sodium salt of vitamin C. Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate and Ascorbyl Stearate are used primarily in makeup products. Erythorbic Acid and Sodium Erythorbate are used primarily in hair and nail products.
Why Is It Used?
Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate, Ascorbyl Stearate, Erythorbic Acid and Sodium Erythorbate all function as antioxidants.
Scientific Facts
Ascorbyl Palmitate and Ascorbyl Dipalmitate are produced from ascorbic acid, or vitamin C, and palmitic Acid, a fatty acidA natural organic compound that consists of a carboxyl group (oxygen, carbon and hydrogen) attached to a chain of carbon atoms with their associated hydrogen atoms. The chain of carbon atoms may be connected with single bonds, making a ‘saturated’ fat; or it may contain some double bonds, making an ‘unsaturated’ fat. The number of carbon and hydrogen atoms in the chain is what determines the qualities of that particular fatty acid. Animal and vegetable fats are made up of various combinations of fatty acids (in sets of three) connected to a glycerol molecule, making them triglycerides. obtained from animal and vegetable fats and oils. Ascorbyl Palmitate has vitamin C activity approximately equal to that of Ascorbic Acid (L-form). Ascorbyl Stearate is produced from ascorbic acid, and stearic acid, another fatty acid obtained from animal and vegetable fats and oils. Erythorbic Acid is an isomer of ascorbic acid. In foods, Ascorbyl Palmitate is used as a source of vitamin C for meat curing and to preserve canned and frozen foods. It also prevents the browning of cut apples.
Safety Information
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Ascorbyl Palmitate and Erythorbic Acid among the substances considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS“GRAS” is an acronym for the phrase Generally Recognized As Safe. Under sections 201(s) and 409 of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (the Act), any substance that is intentionally added to food is a food additive, that is subject to premarket review and approval by FDA, unless the substance is generally recognized, among qualified experts, as having been adequately shown to be safe under the conditions of its intended use, or unless the use of the substance is otherwise excluded from the definition of a food additive.) as a chemical preservativeIngredients that prevent or retard bacterial growth, and thus protect cosmetic products from spoilage.. Ascorbyl Palmitate is also specifically allowed to be used as a preservative in margarine. The safety of Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate, Ascorbyl Stearate, Erythorbic Acid and Sodium Erythorbate has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient ReviewThe Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) was established in 1976 as an independent safety review program for cosmetic ingredients. The CIR Expert Panel consists of independent experts in dermatology, toxicology, pharmacolgy and veterinary medicine. The CIR includes participation by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration and the Consumer Federation of America. (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Ascorbyl Palmitate and the related ingredients were safe for use as cosmetic ingredients.
CIR Safety Review: The CIR Expert Panel noted that antioxidants, particularly those derived from vitamin C, are used in cosmetics and personal care products with increasing frequency. The CIR Expert Panel acknowledged the potential beneficial effects of these antioxidants but focused more on the assessment of safety. The CIR Expert Panel noted that esterAn organic compound formed by the reaction of an acid with an alcohol. forms of these ingredients, which includes Ascorbyl Palmitate, and Ascorbyl Stearate penetrate the skin readily and are used at lower concentrations in leave-on formulations. The available toxicity data supported the safety of Ascorbyl Palmitate and related ingredients as used in cosmetics and personal care products.
FDA: Code of Federal Regulations for Ascorbyl Palmitate
FDA: Link to Code of Federal Regulations for Erythorbic Acid
When made from plants, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate, Ascorbyl Stearate, Erythorbic Acid and Sodium Erythorbate may be used in cosmetics and personal care products marketed in Europe according to the general provisions of the Cosmetics Regulation of the European UnionUnder the general provisions of the cosmetics regulation of the EU, ingredients appearing on the following function-specific annexes must comply with the listed restrictions and/or specifications: colorants (Annex IV), preservatives (Annex V), UV filters (Annex VI) and other ingredients with specific concentration limits and/or other restrictions (Annex III). Ingredients specifically prohibited from use in cosmetic products are listed in Annex II. Other ingredients listed in the EU cosmetic ingredient database (CosIng) may be used without restrictions.. Ingredients of animal origin must comply with the European Union animal by-products regulations.
The Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives has established an Acceptable Daily Intake of 0-1.25 mg/kg body weight for Ascorbyl Palmitate or Ascorbyl Stearate, or the sum of both.
The Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives has not established an Acceptable Daily Intake for Erythorbic Acid and Sodium Erythorbate as the intake of these substances from food at a level need to achieve the desired effect does not represent a hazard to health.
More Scientific Information
Ascorbyl Palmitate is the ester of ascorbic acid and palmitic acid, while Ascorbyl Stearate is the ester of ascorbic acid and stearic acid. Ascorbyl Dipalmitate is the diester of ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. Erythorbic Acid, also called, isoascorbic acid, is an isomer of Acorbic Acid. Sodium Erythorbate is the sodium salt of Erythorbic Acid. All of these ingredients function as antioxidants in cosmetics and personal care products.
Resources
Find out more about the regulation of Food Additives by the Food and Drug Administration