Butyl Thioglycolate
What is it?
Thioglycolic Acid is an organic compound that contains a thiol group (-SH) and carboxylic acid. It is a colorless liquid. Thioglycolic Acid and some salts and esters of Thioglycolic Acid, such as Ammonium Thioglycolate, Butyl Thioglycolate, Calcium Thioglycolate, Ethanolamine Thioglycolate, Glyceryl Thioglycolate, Isooctyl Thioglycolate, Isopropyl Thioglycolate, Magnesium Thioglycolate, Methyl Thioglycolate, Potassium Thioglycolate and Sodium Thioglycolate are used in hair coloring products, permanent wave products, hair straightening products and depilatory products.
Safety Information
As part of its re-review process Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) re-opened the report on Ammonium Thioglycolate, Glyceryl Thioglycolate and Thioglycolic Acid. Because of similarities in stucture and use in personal care products, the CIR Expert Panel added additional thioglycolate sats and esters to this report. The new report was finalized in 2007 with the following conclusion.
Based on the available data, Ammonium Thioglycolate, Butyl Thioglycolate, Calcium Thioglycolate, Ethanolamine Thioglycolate, Ethyl Thioglycolate, Glyceryl Thioglycolate, Isooctyl Thioglycolate, Isopropyl Thioglycolate, Magnesium Thioglycolate, Methyl Thioglycolate, Potassium Thioglycolate, Sodium Thioglycolate and Thioglycolic Acid are safe for use in hair straighteners, permanent waves, hair styling products, and hair dyes and colors at concentrations up to 15.2% (as Thioglycolic Acid). Hair dressers should avoid skin contact and minimize consumer skin exposure. Calcium Thioglycolate, Potassium Thioglycolate, Sodium Thioglycolate and Thioglycolic acid in depilatories are safe when formulated to be non-irritating under conditions of recommended use.
Based on the available data, Ammonium Thioglycolate, Butyl Thioglycolate, Calcium Thioglycolate, Ethanolamine Thioglycolate, Ethyl Thioglycolate, Glyceryl Thioglycolate, Isooctyl Thioglycolate, Isopropyl Thioglycolate, Magnesium Thioglycolate, Methyl Thioglycolate, Potassium Thioglycolate, Sodium Thioglycolate and Thioglycolic Acid are safe for use in hair straighteners, permanent waves, hair styling products, and hair dyes and colors at concentrations up to 15.2% (as Thioglycolic Acid). Hair dressers should avoid skin contact and minimize consumer skin exposure. Calcium Thioglycolate, Potassium Thioglycolate, Sodium Thioglycolate and Thioglycolic acid in depilatories are safe when formulated to be non-irritating under conditions of recommended use.
Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?
Thioglycolic Acid and it salts and esters modify hair fibers to facilitate changes to the structure of the fibers, such as with permanent waves or with hair straightening. They are also used to chemically break down hair fibers so that unwanted hair can be removed by simply wiping it from the skin.
Scientific facts:
Thioglycolic Acid and its salts and esters break disufide bonds in the cortex of the hair. After washing, the hair is treated with a mild solution of hydrogen peroxide, which causes new bonds to form, giving hair the rigid structure necessary for permanent waves.
